Having had many showers, we arrived at Stackpole in the dry and agreed our pick up point at Castlemartin - the range is open most weekends so getting as far as is allowed over the range is no problem today - hooray. I was so excited to be going to see the Green Bridge of Wales! Stackpole is an amazing place having been a huge estate in its former glory and latterly as the land belonging to the Earl of Cawdor. The mansion was demolished in 1963 as the family were unable to pay the death duties. It was the scene of many grand visits including royal ones. So off we set from the lovely setting of the Quay, up to Stackpole Head. What a sight to set us up for the weekend - stupendous cliffs and crashing waves, it was fair enough quite windy! We passed many blow holes and sink holes - just didn't know there would be so many - they are quite scarey! And also so many natural arches - just whetting the appetite for the Green Bridge! We soon arrived at the beautiful Barafundle Bay which we had all to ourselves.
This had been a private beach for the Estate.
It really was a beautiful morning!
With more marvellous cliff views, we soon arrived at the end of the impressive Stackpole Head. Still with views back to Caldey Island and even to the Gower and Rhossili Downs. What's more Lundy Island was clear for much of this morning!
The path ahead led us now towards the next beach walk at Broad Haven where the Bosherston lakes come down to the beach.
But before we got there, we had so much to see - and most of it involved the sea, funnily enough! IT was simply boiling in the wind - the spume flying through the air and nowhere more magnificent today than at the headland of Mowingword!
Just a bit sad that the photos don't do true justice to how it really looked...We wandered on past huge dunes and past enormous sinkholes, not for the faint hearted, and soon arrived then at Broad Haven beach. Not to ourselves this time but certainly not busy although the surfers were there making the most of it!
The bay here is dominated by Church stack out at sea - today the waves were making themselves felt out there.
The bay here was artificially made as a dam was built above the dunes so it is quite sheltered - and very pretty.
And so we headed on towards St Govan's Head still with many sights to see...a sinkhole here...
...and a huge inlet there...New Quay ...
We mistakenly thought that the well-known St Govan's Chapel was at the end of St Govan's Head itself so walked out there...
but it was well worth it for the view! We headed on now towards Trevallen at the landward side of St Govan's head and where the range was declared open but before setting out across it, we went down to the Chapel built into the cliff with the raging sea beneath - a terrific sight. Was it Gawain who had spent some of his later life here?
Off then across the track on the range. Passing Stennis ford and Huntsmans Leap - amazing inlets, the power of the sea....apparently a huntsman did jump over here in the 18th century and was so shocked when he looked back at what he had jumped that he fell off his horse and died! Good story anyway!
Less and less flowers to admire - and try to name - but many mushrooms and toadstools - whether they were field or magic, I'm not sure. What a shame that's a heritage we have forgotten!
Soon we arrived at Bullslaughter Bay. We think so named because of its red sandstone perhaps...or is that a huge toad in there...certainly there were lots of natural arches and "windows" to marvel at.
And the next beach was Flimston Bay. Beautiful but almost totally inaccessible unless you have ropes I should think.
Just before we approached the end of the cliffs for today, we passed what would have been the gatehouse for another iron age fort (can't remember now how many of the 47 around the Pembrokeshire path we have passed already). The main part of the fort has long ago fallen into the sea, only a few earthworks remain.
Then we arrived at the well-known Stack Rocks - or Elegug Stacks which are loved by seabirds in the Spring I believe - there were a few around today and guano evidence of overcrowding maybe! And so on to the Green Bridge - it didn't let us down. a lovely sight if a little blowy by now. Luckily there is a viewing platform all enclosed with a fence so we didn't venture out of it! We wondered how much longer it will be there.
So we left the coast now as this is as far as is allowed. There is a lot more coast to go to the West but this West Range is all on MOD land with public entry only allowed once or twice a year in the summer on guided tours. So we headed inland through the range, passing Flimston chapel and a huge former farmstead there which had been compulsorily purchased for the war effort....towards Castlemartin. Just as we came to the village sign, the heavens opened and the wind blew manically! We headed for the bus stop, our pick-up point and Mavis took us back to Little Neath Barn! A lovely relax and clean up in the very comfortable room after our 11 miles and 6 hours' walking before heading off for refreshment at the Speculation Inn just down the road - very good it was too!
Day Two saw us dropped at the Pound in Castlemartin to resume. The Pound was used in the 15th and later in the 18th centuries to hold wandering cattle for the owners to come back to pay for their release!
As you may see, it was a windy morning and the forecast was a bit grim but it was also very sunny so we decided to give it a go. We were well stocked up with a lovely breakfast anyway! A little walk out of the village led us to Freshwater West - well we could hear it well before we could see it! Never heard or seen anything like it before - what an experience!
Just at the edge of the sea is a seaweed drying hut refurbished to show the local history. There were apparently 20 or so of these at this beach where the seaweed was collected and dried on the floor before being sent to bakeries in the south of Wales to make Laverbread. Some mad souls were attempting to go in the water and there were a few walkers and joggers on the beach - all of us marvelling I think at the spume forming and being blown like snow. The noise was just terrific!
Freshwater West has been the scene of much filming...the last Harry Potter was shot here where they built the Shell House, now demolished, and the Russell Crowe Robin Hood was also shot here. No doubt others will follow - it is such a beautiful and remote setting.
As we climbed out of the bay, the rain came on heavily and we believed that would be the pattern of the day as we trudged through Pembrokeshire pink mud where a new path is being formed to avoid a part where there has been a cliff fall.
The waves below us were just astonishing - once the rain stopped, we then had a few soakings from the mist of the waves crashing beneath us!
The rain however couldn't continue with the wind blowing it away so we had soon dried off. It was very windy as we rounded the cliffs to Guttle Hole - another stunning natural arch with the waves battling though it!
We had views of Sheep Island and then Rat Island as we rounded the headland to come into West Angle Bay and saw an Irish Ferries boat heading down into the Haven. Next came the view of Thorn Island just off the West Angle Bay. There are talks apparently of making this island into a superior hotel but no-one seems to know when.
And we also passed the East Blockhouse built by Henry VIII as one of the defensive points of the Haven - we will have to look out for the Western one when we are at the other side of this massive harbour!
It was quite a relief to drop into the shelter of West Angle Bay even though Chris succumbed to a comedy fall......first aid was at the ready! After a brief lunch we climbed out of the bay. There is opportunity here to take a shortcut into Angle village by cutting across the end of the peninsula - but we don't do shortcuts! And glad we don't, we still had much to see. We passed Chapel Bay which was used to look out or listen for U boats in the War and soon saw the big 300 metre long big! gas ship disposing of its cargo. There is a Fort Boyard look alike in the Haven here too, another Napoleonic fort probably like the one on Thorn Island.
The Valero oil refinery at the other side of Angle Bay and near to Rhoscrowther was growing larger now, it had been on the horizon most of the day and we could see St Mary's church tower in Angle - our rendez-vous at 4 pm. First though we stopped at The Old Point House pub as we rounded into Angle Bay for a welcome coffee.
A lovely old pub where apparently the fire has never gone out - for a long time anyway - in the old type range. And lovely people there too. Ian and Richard had a chat with us about the lifeboat here - the station was just further up the path which we had just passed. and they very kindly donated to our fundraising - thank you very much! Off we went along the potholed track which on high tides in the Spring becomes submerged. Lovely little harbour here and the Tower dates back a long way - it is the equivalent of a peel tower - very rare in Wales.
Day Three - well the threatened storm appeared to have been yesterday afternoon for us. The news had managed to make sure not many people would go to work in the South East this morning. We had heavy rain in the night and so kind of expected to get wet today walking into Pembroke.....So after a hearty breakfast, John dropped us once more in Angle and off we set along the bay.
It was a beautiful, still, sunny morning as we headed around the bay.
We headed towards the oil refinery which had looked like a Christmas tree at night. Although it is maybe not a pretty sight, it is needed so we have to put up with it and today it wasn't too smelly until we went past it to the other side and even then it wasn't terrible. We passed lots of birds at the edge of the bay - oyster catchers, ducks of a sort I can't name, white egrets and even swans!
And we could see the Old Point House for a long time as we looked across the water. And on the horizon was Rocket House which we passed with John this morning. It was used before coastguards were invented as a warning that someone may be in trouble on the Haven - there was a look out who would send up a rocket (flare - not a space one!). It's the white house on the horizon here...now a holiday home..
We headed then away from the Bay and towards Fort Popton and then some up and downs along the road - quite a lot of ups and downs today surprisingly! We passed under the pipes (21 Chris said) taking the oil ashore to the refinery - Chris's favourite bit today (!)
And the views down the Haven (the Daugleddau estuary in truth) were amazing. But one has to wonder what the aim is when wind turbines (turned off today because the wind's too strong no doubt...), see them on the horizon there?, are sitting across and alongside all these oil and gas terminals...........
Soon we were entering Hundleton where we dispensed with waterproofs which were actually only muddy - no rain to speak of! Dropped down then to Quoits Mill Pill which joined the river Pembroke here and headed through Monkton and into Pembroke!! Walk complete and a lovely view of the castle....
....birthplace of the Welsh king of Great Britain, Henry VIIth. After lovely food at Williams, a new food place on the High Street - and very good it was too (much needed too after the 12 miles and 5 hours walk), we met with John again who returned us to the car for the journey home once more. Thank you again Mavis and John for a lovely stay and for your support and donation.
Hope that all wasn't too long and boring - not used to 3 days!! Still standing anyway - and already looking forward to the next one - can we fit one in next week? Perhaps......
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